Sailing the Lycian Coast of Turkey – October 2023

In October 2023, we set off on our second catamaran adventure — this time along the Lycian coast of Turkey. This stretch of coastline between Fethiye and Kaş is rich with history, stunning bays, and dramatic landscapes. Sailing here offers the perfect mix of ancient ruins, turquoise waters, and practical shelter in well-equipped marinas or wild coves.

Our vessel for the trip was a Fountaine Pajot Lucia 40, built in 2019.

Specs:

• Length: 11.73 m
• Beam: 6.63 m
• Draught: 1.2 m
• Furling main sail
• Solar panels
• Dinghy with electric outboard

Day 1 – Arrival in Fethiye (Yacht Classic Hotel Marina)

We started in Fethiye, a lively harbor town with good infrastructure. The Yacht Classic Hotel Marina was our base. Check-in was smooth, and provisioning was easy — there's a Carrefour supermarket right at the marina with free delivery to your boat.

Fethiye itself is worth a stroll. The waterfront promenade is long and scenic, and the town has all the basics — ATMs, pharmacies, and bakeries. But we didn’t linger long. The real adventure was waiting beyond the breakwater.

Day 2 – Kapi Creek (Skopea)

Our first leg took us under sail to Kapi Creek — a well-sheltered bay popular with flotillas.

We docked inside the narrow inlet using stern-to mooring with mooring lines. The space between the pier and the cliffside was tight. While maneuvering, we caught a mooring line in our port-side propeller. Luckily, a neighbor helped cut the rope, and we removed the rest with pliers. Lesson learned: watch those mooring lines.

The bay is busy — around 200 visitors per day. There are basic toilets and showers (cold water only), and you can swim right off the boat.

Day 3 – May Marina (Ekincik) + Dalyan Excursion

We motored to May Marina in Ekincik, situated under a tall, scenic mountain. Facilities were solid — 24/7 showers, hot water, and a small market. We moored side-to.

From here, we booked a 6-hour Dalyan river tour for €180. The small river boat picked us up directly at our marina. The tour included:

• The ancient city of Kaunos
• Lycian rock tombs carved into cliffs
• Iztuzu Beach, known as a nesting site for Loggerhead turtles
• A short visit to Dalyan town

Dalyan’s lagoon system is unique. Three rivers feed into the lake and are blocked off by farmers in dry months to preserve irrigation levels, letting in salty seawater. Turtles and blue crabs thrive in this brackish mix. In winter, the dams open again and freshwater flushes the system.

Day 4 – Ekincik Anchorage

We anchored back in the same bay to avoid marina fees. That evening, a large gulet (traditional Turkish boat) dropped anchor near us. The water stayed clear until the next day when an onshore breeze turned it murky.

Day 5 – Marmaris Anchorage

We motored to Marmaris, detouring around the Turkish Navy base. We anchored just west of Netsel Marina — a popular spot with good holding.

Marmaris is busy, especially near the waterfront, which is lined with restaurants and bars. We used the dinghy with the electric motor to ferry crew to shore for shopping and dinner. Dinner at Yesil Boutique Hotel was excellent — highly recommended, especially the eggplant kebab. As usual in Turkey, the starters, fruit, and dessert were complimentary.

Day 6 – Akvaryum Koyu Mooring (Near Gemiler Island)

We left early in search of water. Albatros Marina had none. Netsel wanted 4700 TRY for water and a 2-hour stay — too much.

We motored ~40 NM at 7.4 knots on 2300 RPM. We booked a mooring buoy at Akvaryum Koyu via WhatsApp. It’s a scenic bay, and though we avoided some small southern islands for safety, it was a relaxing overnight spot.

Day 7 – Kaş Marina

Kaş Marina is modern and well-managed. It's tucked under high mountains, and the town has a distinct Greek feel. That’s no coincidence — the Greek island of Kastellorizo is just a couple miles south, guarded by a Greek naval ship.

Mooring was a bit odd: the mariner asked for a long line, tied it to an underwater loop, and passed it back.

Day 8 – Üçağız, Kekova + Myra

We passed the Sunken City of Kekova, visible from the water. You can’t anchor here — it’s a protected area — but it’s fascinating.

We moored at a floating pontoon in Üçağız run by Hassan. Mediterranean mooring here was with anchor + stern lines to the dock. We took a taxi to Myra to see the impressive Lycian rock tombs and Roman theater.

Day 9 – Kalkan Anchorage

We anchored in Kalkan, a town built into the cliffs. A gulet with Germans anchored nearby — we thought they dropped on us, but all was fine.

We watched a solo sailor moor a catamaran with stern lines to shore. He dropped the anchor, reversed to tension, jumped into his dinghy, and tied off on land. Very efficient.

Day 10 – Cold Water Bay + Butterfly Valley

Cold Water Bay lives up to its name. We rafted up with another boat and anchored with shore lines. The nearby flotilla was loud but fun — they were playing games on SUPs.

In the morning, we hiked to Kayaköy, the abandoned Greek village left empty after the 1923 population exchange.

We later visited Butterfly Valley, dropping anchor near the left cliff wall in shade. The fjord-like setting and steep cliffs resemble Zakynthos. We anchored and tied to a rock.

Day 11 – Göcek, Skopea Marina

Göcek is a central hub with top-tier facilities. We stayed at Skopea Marina, then explored the charming waterfront and stocked up.

Day 12 – Ruin Bay (Hamam Koyu)

The Skopea area was crowded, so we sailed to Yassica Adaları, but were unimpressed. We continued south to Ruin Bay, known for its partially submerged ancient baths.

According to Turkish regulations, it is prohibited to tie mooring lines to trees, especially in national parks and protected areas. Use installed mooring bollards to set shore lines. The Sunseeker speedboat came after us and tried to squeeze in — too close, but no drama. At night, everything went quiet. In the morning, a floating market boat and garbage collection boat came around.

Day 13 – Return to Fethiye

We sailed back to Fethiye under light wind. On arrival, we refueled — 265 liters at the outer dock near Carrefour. The marina employee warned us: Fridays are chaos with up to 150 boats queuing for fuel.

We checked in a day early to enjoy Fethiye's long promenade and took a quick trip to Ölüdeniz, known for its blue lagoon and paragliding.

Final Notes

• Blue Card system: Technically required to log waste and pumping, but it’s often not enforced. No one asked to see ours.
• In Skopea and other busy bays, stern-to mooring with shore lines is common. Mooring bollards are installed to protect trees.
• Always record your location and slip number when departing a marina. Some are huge, and returning without this info is stressful.
• When doing stern-to mooring, set the anchor properly and reverse slowly while crew runs shore lines (windward first).
• Catamarans don’t tack as well as monohulls. Ours had a tacking angle of about 125°, so keep that in mind when sailing upwind.

Smooth sailing!