Croatia, September 2021

In September 2021, we set sail once again – this time along the central and southern stretches of Croatia’s dramatic Dalmatian coast. Our home for two weeks was a Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 479 – at 14.43 meters, the longest yacht we had ever sailed at that point. A trusty if slightly worn cruiser, she carried us through calm bays, remote islands, and historic harbors.

This wasn’t our first time in Croatia, but each visit reveals something new: quieter anchorages, friendlier locals, better techniques (and sometimes worse mistakes). The weather played along, the crew stayed sane, and the sea delivered its usual dose of freedom and small surprises.

Boat: Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 479 (2017)
Length: 14.43 m | Beam: 4.49 m | Draught: 2.24 m
classic mainsail, bow thruster, 57 HP engine

Day 1 – Zaton, Marina Zaton

We landed at Zadar Airport and took an Uber into the city, then hopped on a bus to Šibenik (in retrospect, Vodice might have been a better stop). From Šibenik, we grabbed another Uber to Marina Zaton, a well-maintained marina with two main piers. Just a kilometer away lies the quiet village of Zaton.

Our boat check-in went smoothly. The Jeanneau was functional, though showing its age – scratches and cosmetic wear were noticeable for a 2017 model. We stocked up on essentials and flew the drone to capture our first evening in Croatia.

Day 2 – Šibenik to Primošten

We departed at noon with no wind and motored under the famous Šibenik Bridge. This elegant structure stands 40 meters above sea level, allowing sailboats to pass with ease. We practiced docking at the city pier, spotting the only nearby fuel dock (since Zaton lacks one).

By the afternoon, the wind picked up, and we hoisted sails, covering 15 nautical miles. At Primošten, we moored to a buoy just off the beach dotted with inflatable slides. A woman from the mooring service approached us promptly and handled the lines herself – a common Croatian courtesy.

After seven dinghy trips to and from shore for supplies, we explored the charming old town. From the church, we had a panoramic sunset view and capped the evening with dinner and a bottle of Babić wine. On our return, the dinghy engine stalled – out of fuel. Rowing in the moonlight added a rustic touch to the night.

Day 3 – Komiža, Vis

We left at 10 AM and motored 30 miles to Komiža on the island of Vis, docking at the well-protected inner quay. Mooring lines, water, and electricity were available for 600 HRK. The facilities were minimal – one toilet and two showers – and the marina staff lacked warmth. Still, the pebbled beach and surrounding volcanic scenery made up for it.

We hiked up into the hills but didn't finish the trail. Dinner in town was cozy, and a midnight visit to St. Nicholas Church gave a rare quiet moment. The locals seemed weary from the tourist season.

Day 4 – Skrivena Luka, Lastovo

Motoring 35 miles around southern Vis, we tried fishing along the way. We arrived at Skrivena Luka (“Hidden Bay”) on Lastovo, docking at the pontoon in a bay that reminded us of Sóller in Mallorca. Calm, shallow waters with moorings, water, and power.

We paid a 200 HRK national park fee and received a park booklet. The anchorage was full of Italians – even next to us was a friendly Italian catamaran crew. We hiked to the lighthouse (100m elevation) for a stunning view – Italy was only 60 miles away.

Day 5 – Polače, Mljet

Another 35-mile leg brought us to Polače on the lush island of Mljet. The anchorage is deep but was swept by a powerful side wind from the Bura – a dry northeasterly wind known for its strength and unpredictability.

Docking required strategy: we approached quickly from the windward side, tied the windward stern line and immediately took the mooring line. Trying to tie the leeward stern line first caused the bow to swing – lesson learned.

Mljet is Croatia’s greenest island (77% forested) and part of a national park. We visited the saltwater lakes – truly a gem.

Day 6 – Marina Frapa Dubrovnik

We sailed 35 miles toward Dubrovnik, tacking under full sail for half the trip and even overtaking a downwind boat sailing “butterfly” style. Arriving at Marina Frapa in Gruž Bay, we paid 108 EUR per night. The marina is modern, just two years old, complete with a rooftop pool.

The Old Town is a 20-minute walk. We spent two nights exploring Dubrovnik’s walls, alleys, and a local brewery. We also learned how Game of Thrones brought a tourism boom – fans now crowd filming spots like Fort Lovrijenac.

Day 7 – Lokrum Island

We took a boat from the Old Port to Lokrum Island at 15:15, returning at 18:15 (75 HRK per person, plus 150 HRK for park entry). The island is tranquil and fascinating, with free-roaming peacocks and exotic gardens. A hike to Fort Royal offers sweeping views of Dubrovnik’s walled city.

Day 8 – Šipanska Luka, Šipan

Fuel stop first: we filled 93 liters at 10.5 HRK/L. Then a short sail to Šipan’s large, well-sheltered bay. Initially tied to a mooring line, we later moved to a restaurant buoy – depths were shallow (3–4m), and we snorkeled to check the anchor slab.

We called a famous restaurant (once visited by Harrison Ford), but their three mooring buoys were already reserved. The owner, incredibly friendly, explained most buoys are private – except restaurant ones. Anchoring is allowed with 50m of chain; holding is good on sandy grass.

A beautiful evening hike led to a telecom tower for a golden sunset over the Elaphiti Islands.

Day 9 – Lučica Lumbarda, Korčula

After a calm morning and brief gusts, we arrived at Lumbarda. Korčula’s main marina was under renovation and noisy. Lumbarda, by contrast, had a family-run charm, a pebble beach bar, and basic but functioning showers.

Taxi to Korčula Old Town (6.5 km, 100 HRK) was easy. The Old Town sits on a peninsula, offering great drone shots and panoramic viewpoints. Dinner in a konoba capped the day with views over the sea. Night was cold – just 14°C.

Day 10 – Lovište, Pelješac

Tricky exit – squeezed between two catamarans, we had a tight 18m-wide channel. A nearby skipper eased his mooring line to give us room. A thruster and straight-back maneuvering helped us escape perfectly.

The 11-mile leg to Lovište brought light winds and lazy tacks. The bay was stunning and well-protected. We took a buoy (250 HRK) or could’ve anchored for free.

Day 11 – Pakleni Islands

Aware that Hvar fills quickly, we left at 8 AM and arrived by noon. The port was packed. Moorings on the west, buoys on the east. We attempted a spot just vacated, but it was reserved. A damaged buoy forced us to plan B.

We moored at Tri Grede restaurant buoy off Marinkovac Island (part of the Pakleni archipelago). Rotational wind meant careful stern control. A water taxi took us into Hvar, where we climbed to the fortress, explored the park, and sampled local craft beers.

Day 12 – Maslinica, Šolta

A 17-mile hop brought us to Maslinica on Šolta. We arrived without fenders, met by friendly mariners. Though the marina was “booked,” they found us a berth on the outer mole (112 EUR).

We swam from the bow to a nearby beach with public showers. One local mariner caught an octopus and proudly displayed his prize. Dinner was in Sesula Bay, just around the corner – a scenic, better-protected spot. Next time, we’d anchor there.

Day 13 – Šibenik

Sailed 30 miles back. Near Drvenik Mali we spotted something large – maybe a shark?

We prepped the boat for docking at the fuel pier: fenders, lines, and a perfect reverse maneuver. We filled 90 liters and docked at the town quay – no water, no power, lots of loitering people.

Still, we enjoyed the city: swam at the local beach, visited St. Michael’s Fortress, strolled medieval alleys, and had a hearty fish stew.

Day 14 – PCR Test, Krka Lake, Marina Zaton

We took PCR tests in the morning – a tent setup, efficient service, results by email. I also saw a doctor about a splinter from day one — the visit cost 280 HRK but was fully covered by my travel insurance. You never know what might happen out there, so always make sure you're insured before any sailing trip.

We sailed into Krka Lake – the water was murky and cold — but if you dove down to about 3 meters, it suddenly got hot! A strange thermal experience. Returned to Marina Zaton with a crosswind. A bow thruster helped. One of the lines had to be reset after a messy pass from the marina staff.

Check-out was smooth, full deposit returned, the logbook stamped. Celebrated the trip with a relaxed dinner in Zaton.

Day 15 – Departure

Our transfer arrived at 10:30. Less than an hour to the airport – speeding at 160 km/h on the autobahn (limit technically 130+10%). We noticed almost no Croatian plates – mostly German and Austrian.

Another incredible Adriatic adventure in the logbook. Croatia never disappoints.

Fair winds, Sail Bros.